ST ANDREWS, THE CASTLE COURSE - 16 POINTS

Looking back, it was always going to be a tough gig. The St Andrews Links Trust were keen to build another golf course in the town to cope with the ever-growing demand from visitors to this historic town. Golf has been played on the Old Course for many hundreds of years, even the ‘New’ course has 125 years under its belt now. When they undertook a project to build a new new course to the east of the town, they turned to the toast of Bandon Dunes, David McLay Kidd.

The land was far from promising. Of course, the setting was fantastic, right on the cliffs with St Andrews beyond, but the land wasn’t links land. The farmers’ fields that had been purchased consisted of dense, heavy soil and it was pretty flat. It’s a credit to the work of McLay Kidd and the shapers he used that this course absolutely doesn’t feel like it’s been produced from such land.

Huge amounts of earth were moved to create the impression the land had been this way for centuries. Some new courses have an artificial look - no-one standing on the first tee at Dumbarnie would mistake it for age-old dunes. Not so at The Castle Course.

There was an irony that most of the criticism aimed at The Castle Course at St Andrews was that too much land had been moved in the construction of the course. And once aspect in particular - the greens. Word got around quickly that the greens were simply ludicrous with pins in positions you simply couldn’t get near and scoring in any wind was impossible. Another criticism was the mounds, often in the middle of the fairways, with very long rough that could render a ‘good’ drive lost - in some places they were nicknamed ‘Don Kings’ due to the stark, hairy look!

I played the course over a dozen years after it opened and it has evolved over this time. I can report that the Don Kings have largely gone, in fact it is pretty wide off the tee and easy to get the ball away. Many of the holes look tighter from the tee than they actually are when you get down the fairway.

As for those greens, well, they are definitely a bit extreme in parts. I understand that over the years some of the run-off areas have been softened but you should still expect a rollercoaster around the greens. As a visitor you will be given a strokesaver and a pin sheet which shows every green and the area where the pins are on any given day. At some courses, it’s easy to put them in your back pocket and not look at them the whole way round. At The Castle Course life will be much easier if you pay attention on every approach shot!

It may sound obvious but you will score much better if you work out where the ‘best miss’ is on any given hole. Often, you will be much better off missing the green, but on the right side of the hole, than being a distance away on the green. There are some incredible banks within vast greens, false fronts that can take the ball 60 yards away, punchbowls and ridges galore. When I posted on Twitter that I enjoyed that, I was met with two responses. One camp was quite visceral that the greens had ruined their rounds and were a joke. The other was more inclined to say, ‘isn’t it great fun?’! 

I was very definitely in the second camp. I really enjoyed the challenge that they served up. I think they would be even more enjoyable a second time round when you have a better idea of where to be. One of my followers put it perfectly when he said that, if you have a card in your hand it may be infuriating, but for a friendly matchplay, and with the right attitude, you’ll enjoy it.

So, beyond the Don Kings and the rollercoaster greens, what to expect? I think the routing is very well done. You will head west, inland towards St Andrews to begin with, before turning back to the clubhouse along the coast from the spectacular 6th. The back 9 then heads inland again, away from the town, before a spectacular clifftop finish on the way back to the 18th which shares a vast green with the 9th. 

Some modern courses have gone big on the stunning views at the expense of making a course walkable - Mr Nicklaus, I’m talking to you. That hasn’t happened here. While you don’t fall off the greens onto the next tee there are no massive hikes or climbs uphill for a nice view. That said, the course has more elevation change than you would typically get on a links course, so expect to feel it on your feet.

The early holes are pleasant enough and the second will give you an idea of what to expect with a huge and rolling green. That green chart will come into its own since, depending on the pin position, you could be hitting any one of half a dozen different clubs in. 

The course really comes into its own on the 6th where a blind tee shot takes you over a steep hill. If you hit the chute at the correct angle you will get close to the green, miss it to the right as I did and you will have a long iron in your hand. But however you get there, you will be rewarded with lovely views over to St Andrews. The run of holes to the uphill 11th is probably the strongest on the property.

The 8th is a clever par 3 - it’s only around 130 yards in from whatever tee you are playing from but the angle gets progressively harder as you ‘move back’. As the stroke saver says, from the left tee you could run one in but from the right it’s all carry.

The 9th is another hole which will reward a good length drive, but the green should be reachable in two by all. It’s another great setting - a giant shared green with the 18th, right on the water’s edge.

The start to the back 9 moves away from the coast, but is still strong. The 10th is an uphill par 3 to one of ‘those’ greens. Take careful note where the pin is as getting on the wrong tier could mean a big score is in the offing.

I am a sucker for a good coastal hole so it should be no surprise that I enjoyed the finish. The 16th plays towards the water. It may be under 400 yards and downhill but with a massive false front you need to fly the ball onto the green or risk having a very long and tricky pitch to make par.

The 17th is the signature hole and the one that gets all the Instagram love! It’s 179 yards from the middle tees and 160 yards of that is carry over the cliffs to get to the green. It’s not an easy shot, and the wind will have a massive impact on what you are hitting here. With a breeze into me it took all of my 4 iron to make it over but, when I did, the ball funneled in from the left to the pin. The video in this tweet shows you what you’ll be facing on the hole.

I had to check my strokesaver several times on the 18th tee to work out where I was going. This is one hole that has retained a tufted area which looks from the tee like it is in the middle of the fairway although it actually lies on the right hand side. Luckily for me the middle of the fairway was safe from my tee shot! As a three shotter it’s a relatively easy green to hit, although, like so many, it is hard green to hold in a good spot if you aren’t accurate with the approach.

If truth be told, I enjoyed my round at The Castle Course far more than I had expected. None of my fears really materialised. Some had told me drainage was an issue, but much has been done to improve that over recent years and it showed. It was relatively easy to keep the ball in play - I kept the same one for the whole round which is a fairly rare occurrence for me. And as for the greens, they were quite thrilling in places and I enjoyed them.

Of course this golf bears almost no relation to the true links golf you will find in the town of St Andrews itself and many have disparaged the course for it - unfairly I think. Don’t come here expecting to find a classic, historic, links course. Don’t come here obsessing about every shot you take. But do bring your camera, and a good attitude, and I reckon you’ll have a pretty good time.

BOOKING THE COURSE

Compared to the eye-watering green fees at Dumbarnie and Kingbarns, The Castle Course is a touch more modest. The course is only open from March to the start of November and tee times range from £80 to £160 depending on which month you’re playing. When you see some of the egregious inflation at other courses in recent years, that’s pretty good value.

The online booking for St Andrews is pretty poor. There are a few tee times online but most aren’t, which is very odd in this day and age. Instead, you are encouraged to email or phone to get a time. All the details are on their website here.

Prices correct as of August 2023.

TOUR TIPS

St Andrews pretty much exists for two things - golf and the university. Accommodation can be pretty expensive though so it is well worth considering staying in university accommodation if you're there in the summer months. It's cheap, close to the town centre and absolutely fine for a couple of nights. At the other extreme, The Old Course Hotel will give you a spectacular view, but at quite a cost. There is plenty in between and Tripadvisor will help you find something right for you.
 
When it comes to drinking there would be two obvious choices. The Dunvegan Hotel is very close to the 18th green and has a bar full of memorabilia and good drink on tap - there are also rooms available. It would be criminal to finish a round and not end up there for a pint.

Another place to seek out is The Jigger Inn. OK, it's far from an authentic Scottish boozer as it's owned by the Old Course Hotel but just to be able to sit alongside the 17th fairway and watch players come by is a great experience. As for the pub itself, it's a Scottish pub as the Old Course Hotel thinks Americans would want it. Have one there and move on into town!

There are plenty of other pubs in St Andrews happy to take your money. I have been to a few but local ex-student Graylyn Loomis has been to a lot more. Here's a link to his guide - http://www.graylynloomis.com/the-best-pubs-in-st-andrews/. There's lots of great stuff on Graylyn's pages about St Andrews so if you are looking for inside tips it’s a really good resource.

In terms of your round itself, don't expect too much myth and mystery in the clubhouse. It's a new build, visitor-centric clubhouse which comprises a changing room, shop, average bar and average food.

When it comes to other courses in the area to play, you are spoiled for choice in Fife. If I was planning a trip, and wanted to go for the ultimate experience, I would do the Old and New, Kingsbarns and Carnoustie which is only 40 minutes away - maybe throw in Dumbarnie too. However, if you want to tone it down a bit, but still play some cracking courses, then Elie, Crail, Leven and Lundin would all be worthy additions for a really authentic Fife experience! 

CONTACT DETAILS

The Castle Course
St Andrews
KY16 8PL


Web - www.standrews.com
Email - reservations@standrews.com
Phone - +44 (0)1334 466 718

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