Golf is integral to life in East Lothian, the 18th at Gullane 1 finishes right in the heart of the village
As the nations of the UK continue in lockdown, thoughts of holidays with friends seem a long way off. It’s likely that even when things do open up, travel for UK residents is likely to be domestic only for a while. But it’s nice to have things to look forward to, so I am going to spend the next few weeks writing about UK golf trips that may inspire you for the days when we can travel again.
Many of these trips I’ll have been on myself, some will be inspired by ideas people have sent me, and some are trips I have always wanted to do.
I am going to start close to home. I live in the village of Gullane in East Lothian, in the heart of Scotland’s Golf Coast. It’s a great place to come for a trip. A warm welcome awaits you, and I’m always up for a game when you’re in the area!
IN A NUTSHELL
Lying on the coast, to the East of Edinburgh, East Lothian is one of the world’s real golf-mad centres. There are 21 golf courses within a 30 minute drive of Gullane. Links golf dominates and there are options for all budgets. The sandy ground means that the courses are playable all year round. If you are looking for wild nightlife as well as golf, this may not be the trip for you - but there are plenty of good restaurants and pubs in the area to entertain you in the evenings.
COURSES TO PLAY
You really are spolit for choice in East Lothian when it comes to choice of courses. However, if you are coming for the first time then you may want to get one of these ‘big guns’ in:
Muirfield
It’s genuinely one of the very best golf courses in the world. The routing is wonderful, the bunkering sublime and the condition is always immaculate. In 2021 it’s open for visitor play on Mondays, Tuesdays and Thursdays. If lockdown rules allow the clubhouse to be open, then do try to stay for lunch and play a fourball in the afternoon. Despite what you may have heard, the welcome is very warm and this is one of those golf experiences that will stay with you forever. It’s an expensive tee time in the summer but the price more than halves in the off-season.
UK Golf Guy Review, Graylyn Loomis
North Berwick
North Berwick has shot up the World Rankings in recent years - it’s now at 38 in the world. That’s because those rankings have started rewarding fun and enjoyment more than tough, punishing slogs. It may be a cliche, but North Berwick is a course you will play with a smile on your face all the way round. You can see the coast from most holes (you may well need to play off the beach on several) and there are quirks galore. But this isn’t just a novelty act; North Berwick has some of the best golf architecture you will find anywhere in the world.
UK Golf Guy review, Scottish Golf History, Planet Golf
Gullane 1
There are three courses at Gullane and ‘Number 1’ is the pick of the crop. The Scottish Open has been held there twice in recent years and the players raved about the great links test of Gullane in the week before The Open. The setting is just wonderful. You start in the village before heading up the hill to one of the most spectacular views in the world of golf - you can see to Edinburgh and beyond in the west and to glorious views of Fife in the North. The course isn’t as tough a test as Muirfield but it will challenge you well enough. Golf on Gullane Hill is an experience every golfer should have at least once.
UK Golf Guy review, Cookie Jar video
The quality hardly drops off when you go down to the next ‘tier’ of courses. I’d thoroughly recommend any of these to add to the trip:
Dunbar
20 minutes to the east of North Berwick, Dunbar is set right on the coast, with some spectacular views. A great variety in holes - you don’t get your first par 4 until the 4th! Always in good condition.
UK Golf Guy review, Dunbar Golf Club website
Kilspindie
Kilspindie lies in the village of Aberlady, just 5 minute from Gullane. It’s not a long course - a 5,500 yard par 69 - but one that will still test your game. Wind is normally a factor here, you are playing right on the coast, and the views are simply magnificent. It’s the perfect place to practice all the links shots you’re going to need to take on some of the bigger names.
Kilspindie website, No Laying Up video,
Gullane 2 or 3
Gullane 2 and 3 are both well worth a play when you’re in the area. While they each have a few more inland holes than number 1, they share the same wonderful links terrain and many of the same views. Number 3 is particularly worth a visit if you’re looking for a quick round - if you’re first out in the morning, a two hour round is very doable!
Gullane 2 review, Gullane 3 Review
The Glen
The Glen is the ‘other’ North Berwick club. Set at the east end of town, the Glen is unlike most of the other courses in the area in that it’s not a pure links. It’s a clifftop course that has some fantastic views and nice holes. This is a members’ course where visitors are made more than welcome.
UK Golf Guy Review, Average Golfer Video
Luffness
As you drive into Gullane from Edinburgh you will see the Luffness clubhouse on your right and the golf courses on either side. In recent years the course has become a lot more accessible to visitors and you will find a course that is firm, fair and fun. It has a similar vibe to Muirfield, and a lunch and wine cellar of similar standard too!
UK Golf Guy Review, Top100golfcourses.com
Musselburgh (The Old Course)
For something completely different consider renting a set of hickory clubs (available at the club) and playing a round on the 9 hole course at Musselburgh Links. The Open was held here 6 times in the early days and it’s well worth a visit to get a glimpse of what golf was like back then.
UK Golf Guy Review,
If you are a high-roller then it is possible to book stay and play packages at the Renaissance Course and there are sometimes playing opportunities available at Archerfield (home to Fidra and Dirleton).
WHERE TO STAY
There are plenty of options around the East Lothian area and a lot will depend on the kind of trip you want.
North Berwick is the centre of Golf Coast and has a good selection of pubs and restaurants as well as places to stay. The Marine Hotel is the largest hotel in town and has a wonderful setting, overlooking the famous 16th hole at North Berwick. It is currently being refurbished under new ownership and expectations are high. Beyond that, North Berwick has many B&Bs and plenty of Airbnb options which are worth checking out. They’ll all be used to golf parties visiting so should be able to assist.
Gullane is the golf capital of East Lothian really but it is a smaller place than North Berwick. There are two high end hotels here - Greywalls, overlooking Muirfield, and the Bonnie Badger in the middle of the village. Both are fairly expensive options with upmarket restaurants and bars but there are plenty of places for rent in the village as well. While not as big as North Berwick, Gullane has a good selection of places to eat and drink in the village and no-one will blink if you turn up with your golf clubs. The Main Course, directly opposite the first tee at Gullane 1, and where you’ll always get a warm welcome, is my number 1 pick in town!
Aberlady is another option to consider. It’s smaller again but is home to the Duck’s Inn. This is very much a hotel that caters to the golf market. You can hear owner, Malcolm Duck, talking all things East Lothian golf on this podcast.
If you are happy to stay more rurally then you will wanter to consider Garleton Lodge - a boutique hotel a little inland. It comes very highly recommended by those who’ve stayed - check out these Tripadvisor reviews.
CLIMATE
East Lothian is one of Scotland’s sunniest (and driest) regions. You can get a lovely day any time between April and October and some beautiful winter sun. Having said that the weather can’t be guaranteed in this part of the world, so whatever time of year you are coming it’s worth packing for all weathers.
The other thing to take into account when coming to Scotland is that the summer days are so long. The sun is up at 5am and sets well after 10pm in East Lothian in the summer which means 36 holes in a day won’t be a problem.
If I had to pick one month of the year to visit East Lothian it would probably be May. It’s drier than the peak summer months and you’ll get more hours of sunshine too.
Weather statistics for Dunbar. Source - Met Office
HOW TO GET THERE
If you are flying into Edinburgh airport then the best bet is to pick up a hire car and drive the 40 minute to North Berwick. You’ll pass Musselburgh Links after about 25 minutes if you fancy stopping in! From central Edinburgh you can get one of the regular trains to North Berwick. However, when you are in the area, a car will be useful. If you do want to use taxis make sure you book them well in advance as they can be few and far between.
NEXT TIME - Next up I’ll be covering a golf trip to North Norfolk. Feel free to message me with any suggestions for inclusions!