Picture - Hunstanton Golf Club
The next in my series of places to visit in the UK (when lockdown is behind us) is North Norfolk. I haven’t taken this trip yet myself, but it’s one that I’ve long planned and have researched quite extensively over the years. I’m just waiting for the right time to get there! If you have been and have any nuggets to share, please do leave a comment.
IN A NUTSHELL
If you are looking for old-school golf in an archytepal English setting then North Norfolk is the place to go. Charm - on the golf course by day and in the cosy pubs in the evening - will be the vibe to expect on this trip.
COURSES TO PLAY
Brancaster and Hunstanton are the two big stars you probably won’t want to miss but there are some other great options to add to your trip.
Royal West Norfolk (Brancaster)
Brancaster is likely to be the main magnet for your pilgrimage to the North Norfolk Coast. Golf World ranks it as the 17th best course in England and describes it as ‘up there with Lahinch, Prestwick and North Berwick for fun, idiosyncratic golf’ - that’s good enough for me! The course plays on a narrow strip of links land between the dunes and salt marsh - it can be cut off at high tide so plan your tee time carefully. You’ll find shared fairways, sleepered bunkers and a classic old-school clubhouse. This is a two-ball course though so either twoballs or foursomes is the order of the day - if you are a four, expect to either split into two groups or play alternate shots. Oh, and you can’t play as a visitor on the weekend or in the month of August!
Fine Golf Review, Evalu18.com review
Hunstanton
Just a 20 minute drive from Brancaster, Hunstanton is another classic links golf course. It is an out-and-back links, running either side of a central dune spine. The course has held numerous top amateur events and is considered one of England’s finest championship tests. The bunkering is particularly praised, both for placement on the fairways and the quality of greenside bunkering. The condition at Hunstanton is said to have dramatically improved in recent years and is now of a high standard. It’s another twoball club, although fourballs are allowed on Tuesdays and after 1pm on summer Sundays.
Sean Arble’s Review, Hunstanton Website Hole Guide
Sheringham
It may not look too far on the map, but it is the best part of an hour’s drive east of Brancaster to Sheringham, though well worth the trip. This is the obvious next course to add to your trip to north Norfolk. Sheringham isn’t a links, but rather a clifftop course on fast-running ground. After a relatively benign opening you will arrive at the cliffs and will play much of the rest of the round between the coast and the North Norfolk railway. Some suggest it’s a little too generous from the tee for their liking and therefore plays a little easier than its illustrious neighbours. That’s never been a cause of complaint for me!
Sheringham Website Video, Golfshake review
Royal Cromer
Cromer is just a short drive along the coast from Sheringham and has a similar clifftop setting. Like Sheringham, the first few holes are just a warm-up for the coastal holes where the great views kick in. Expect changes in undulation to be a feature of many holes and small, fast-running greens make scoring a test. There are maybe a few more ordinary holes at Cromer compared to others on the list, but the highs are high too.
Golf Empire Review, Today’s Golfer Review
King’s Lynn
It’s likely you will be passing close to King’s Lynn on your journey to the North Norfolk coast and it’s well worth stopping there for a round. The challenge there is very different from the other courses on this list. Kings Lynn is a tight, tree-lined course where accuracy is rewarded, indeed demanded. While that may put some off, Kings Lynn is a really pretty course in a lovely setting so you are unlikely to regret your stop on the way to the links on the coast. Indeed one golf architect describes the Alliss/Thomas course as ‘very much like Woburn, maybe better’.
Top100golfcourses.com, King’s Lynn Golf Club
WHERE TO STAY
If you are planning a trip to North Norfolk don’t expect late night clubs and 24 hour kebab shops. This is olde worlde England and cosy pubs and quaint villages are the order of the day.
Burnham Market is (possibly self proclaimed) ‘Norfolk’s Loveliest Village’ and this is a good spot to base yourself. It’s 15-20 minutes from the golf at Royal North Norfolk and Hunstanton and 45 minutes to Sheringham and Cromer. At the heart of the village you will find The Hoste Arms which has been refreshing visitors for 400 years now, and other B&Bs in the village.
Another option would be to stay in Brancaster and The Ship Hotel is the obvious choice there. Close to the coast and the golf course, with recently refurbished rooms and high quality restaurant, it makes for a good base.
Just outside of Brancaster you will find the small village of Titchwell with The Briarsfield Hotel and Titchwell Manor, again handy for the golf.
This area has seen quite some gentrification over recent years so accommodation isn’t always cheap, however you could stay in King’s Lynn and travel up for the the golf if you are looking for a cheaper stay at a Premier Inn.
Some reader recommendations -
@mrnicktaylor - Pub recommendation from me goes to The Rose & Crown in Snettisham. Great grub and gets the Royal seal of approval from time to time.
@deanotommo - Some really good fish and chip choices in North Norfolk too (if that’s your thing)
@HertsTimelord - The generosity of the fairways at @SheringhamGolf means it is playable even in a stiff breeze. Also worth the trip just to play the Joyce Wethered “What train” hole as I did with a steam train clanking past.
@FlatCapGolfer - Have a few jars in The Mariner and stay in The Best Western in Old Hunstanton. Jolly Sailors in Brancaster Staithe superb for real ale. Played most of tracks up there with Flat Cap Senior when he was still around. Epic battles. Tall tales. Wonderful place for a golf trip.
@WendorfDan - Don’t forget the new Royal Norwich. Also, agree Royal West Norfolk is so interesting and the past Captains list is quite something.
@codney67 - Some really good golf and some lovely pubs ....Royal Cromer was my fave although not to everyones taste ..a wonderful and quite crazy back nine and my fave pub /restaurant Whitehorse at Brancaster Staithe..sit up top or out back and watch the sun drop. Links hotel Sheringham good for golfers. Also stayed at the Victoria Inn at Holkham..v nice but obviously pricier. For restaurants The Wiveton Bell was cracking...great place for a quality golf trip
@SoulsbyRichard - Brilliant trip... Dersingham is a good place to stay in that area... A couple of lovely pubs. The coach and horses was a cracking pint
@BCMfyi - You'll certainly get a very warm and hospitable welcome at Hunstanton and Royal Cromer. I'd recommend a stay in Wells, Blakeney or Cley with some great pubs and views too
CLIMATE
The east of England is materially drier, and sunnier, than the west of the country and Norfolk is a pretty good bet for summer sun. However, the temperature at the coast will often be a little cooler than inland and you should expect to find a bit of wind too. It gets pretty busy in the height of summer, so June or September could be good bets for nice weather and more affordable accommodation
Weather statistics for Hunstanton. Source - Met Office
HOW TO GET THERE
This area isn’t blessed with great transport links so factor in plenty of time for driving on the slow country roads. If you’re driving from either London or Birmingham expect the journey to be between 2 1/2 and 3 hours.
The train to King’s Lynn is about 2 hours from London but if you are coming from the north or west you will take a much more convoluted route, on slower trains, via Ely.
NEXT TIME - I’ll be covering the links courses of South Wales.
PREVIOUS TRIPS -
East Lothian